Monday, October 19, 2009

Jaigoan, a crazy little town

After about 5 long years it dawned to me that I had driven my SUV long enough. I needed a new car to brighten my hardened soul after bumpy rides through out Bhutan. Within a week of this thought i was driving to Phuntsholing (Bhutan's border town with Indian town of Jaigoan).

With the recent road widening and construction the road is as bumpy as it can be. When it rains its even worse. In some places the whole mountain has given way to huge landslides with narrow roads hanging precariously on the cliff. Passing these slides, any Buddhist would chant a few prayers, is quite scary.

Starting early, I reached Phuntsholing early. After placing an order for my car i had nothing to do so i slipped across the border. With Bhutan gate in the middle and a narrow drain in between the two towns are shoulder to shoulder with each other. If you take a step forward you will be in India and a step back you will be back in Bhutan.

From a dingy shanty town Jaigoan has grown to a bustling town with shopping Malls, movie theaters, fairly good restaurants and amusement houses.

Jaigoan has always amused me. As a little kid, holding my father's hand i went with him to this town for our annual shopping. Then i liked the streets lined with vegetable vendors, cobblers and rickshaw pullers who tugged at my sleeves for a cheap ride. "You have to bargain till you feel the itch in your nose" my elders said, and its true. The shopkeepers mark the price based on your appearance. A smartly dressed educated-looking person will be announced a reasonable price while a rustic country-type potato grower will be announced double the actual price knowing the fact that half the price will be bargained.

End of the day most return home triumph after having bargained so much.

I loved street magics and the snake charmers. I would have stayed the whole day watching them but my dad was always in a hurry. There was always something happening here. Animals trainers would make their animals entertain the passing crowd. Monkeys and bear danced while low tight-rope walkers showed theirperfection.

I always carried few coins with me so that i could throw some to the snake charmer who said it was for the "milk" for his snakes. I never grudged throwing few to the monkey trainer too.

Even today, Jaigoan has changed a little in spirit though it has become more polluted and populated. Some say "beside your mom and dad" you can literally find anythng here. And its true, from branded denims to designer jewellery, from great Indian sweet meat to the street "Pani -Puri " (a small puffed bread which is dipped in tamarind and rock salt water), almost everything is found here for every pocket.

The streets are strewn with litter and the Cow (Goddess of wealth) freely roam the streets ravaging on the garbage.

So, everything co-exists here animals, garbage and humans.

I could have gone on and on about this town but i would like you to enjoy some pictures




















Bhutan Gate standing proudly on the border

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Bhutan And Swiss Soccer Match

Football (soccer) is one of the favourite sports in Bhutan. People enjoy playing and watching it. Since the introduction of western education football has become a part of a school co-curricular activities.

On September 27, 2009 a friendly match was played between the Bhutan national team and the visiting Swiss team.

The match was not as expected. The visiting team was weak and the match one sided. Initially the Bhutanese team in nervousness could hardly tackle the ball. Their moral booster was Passang 's (striker) easy gole in 20 minutes of the first half. With 1-0 lead the Bhutanese team had full control of the game. Then a succession of goles were scored by the Bhutanese team. Bhutan won the match with 5-0 lead.

Few years back Bhutan and Monserrat the last two FIFA ranked countries played a similar match and Bhutan come out victorious thus climbing the FIFA rank.

Below are some pictures from today's event:


Swiss team spectators


Match in progress


Bhutanese team


Army band


Monday, September 21, 2009

Strong Earthquake Rocks Bhutan

A strong earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale according to United States Geological Survey rocked Bhutan at around 3 pm on Sep 23. The epicenter centered 180km east of Thimphu in Mongar, a small town in eastern Bhutan.

The earthquake destroyed houses and monasteries. Lhuntshi Dzong, one of the oldest forts in the east has been severely damaged by the quake. The total estimate of the damaged is yet to be accessed by the district local Government.

Four labourers working on the road lost their lives when boulders and trees came hurtling down the hill killing them on the spot. A severly injured woman who was taken to a hospital succumbed to her injuries there taking the death toll to 5 people.

In Trashiyangtse, a small town in the east people ran out of their houses when they felt the tremor. While only few people in Thimphu actually felt the tremor.

Earthquake of similar magnitude was felt in early 20th century.

Bhutan lies in the earthquake belt making it vulnerable to earthquakes of even bigger magnitude in future.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Bhutan village festival

Bhutan Festivals are unique and a great time for tourists and the locals alike. Its a time when the villagers leave behind their back breaking work and gather to have fun and cleanse their sins.

Festivals
in Bhutan are characterized by color, gaiety, enthusiasm, prayers and rituals. Foreign travelers are struck by the scale and multiplicity of Bhutanese festivals that have evolved in the society. Fairs and festivals are moments of remembrance and commemoration of the birthdays and great deeds of gods, goddesses, hero, heroines and saints.

Hongtsho, is a small hamlet about 20 km away from Thimphu (capital city). Apples and potatoes are the major cash crop here. This hamlet has a population of about 500 hundred people. They have a small community school, an out reach clinic and few shops.

Every year on the 15th day of the seventh month on the Bhutanese calender a small festival is celebrated here to please the protecting deity of the hamlet. People make offerings in the temple and receive blessings. Mask dances and folk dances are performed by the villagers.

Below are some pictures from the festival



Enjoying their lunch


Young monks witnessing the festival


remembering their yester-years


mask dances


A dilapidated house, people still live in it.


mask dance


festival clown entertaining the crowd


The festival ground.

Monday, August 31, 2009

Laya, a remote village in Bhutan

Laya is a remote village three days walk from a motor able road. People living here are nomads and rear yaks. During summer these nomads go higher up the mountains looking for good pasture. When the winter sets in and when the ground is covered in snow they move down to low lying areas where they can still feed their yaks.

Laya is a trekkers paradise. The breathtaking views and the enchanting people have left a lasting impression on the minds of the many.

Below are some pictures from Laya


Laya-cherub


weaving hats


high altitude flower


churning milk


Stairway to heaven


The silver meandering river



prayer flags on the mountain to please the dieties.


This must be a heaven


Houses in Laya



A bridge over a small river


Ferrying goods