Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Pumula hike -hiking around Thimphu.

                                         

Pumula is at an altitude of 3400 mts. The day hike to Pumula starts at an altitude of 2300 mts and rise gradually rises for almost 1000 mts before we reach the pass. Pumula trail was an old trade route between the valley of Thimphu and Paro. In the olden days the royal messengers did this route from Paro to Thimphu or vice versa in a day. Today for a good hiker it might take nothing less than 16 hours to complete the route from Thimphu to Paro.

On the Pumula day hike we are not going to Paro but to the highest peak as seen from Thimphu.

We start our hike from the base of the mountain through dense forest. The trail is gradual and the path is clear of debris with the constant beating of horse hooves that pass the route at least thirty forty times during trekking season in Bhutan (good trekking season last for six months). Covered with tall trees on both the sides apart from the different coniferous forests, there is hardly any view on this route till we reach Pumula.

At a good pace it takes almost two and half hours to reach Pumala. From is a good spot for lunch. Pumula has a huge stupa and a small clearing a perfect place to rest and refresh.

After lunch you can hike for two hours to the highest peak as seen from Thimphu. The highest peak is about 4000 mts. From here you will be able to see the surrounding mountain ranges and the last camp site on the Druk path trek when starting the trek from Thimphu. The village of Tshaluna clear from this peak. The downhill hike to the start point takes about two hours.

pumula hike
Wild flowers in a meadow







Tuesday, May 29, 2012

K-Trail -hiking around Thimphu

                                                                Start of the K-trail

We got up at the crack of dawn and after filling our day packs with "grubs" for the day, we set out to discovery a new hiking trail. Our trail was to start from Kuenselphodrang aka Buddha point (famous amongst young couples during weekends for romance and to some, a place for nitty gritty things in life, not to forget the line of tourists and Thimphu residents who go there for sightseeing).

                                                                  The Trail is marked in red


Kuenselphodrang (K) is on a spur commanding the Thimphu valley below. About 10 minutes drive from down town Thimphu its a perfect place to go biking or even on a leisurely walk. Kuenselphodrang has the tallest statue of Buddha is the world, it was donated by a Singaporean millionaire. Buddha point one of the must-see sightseeing places in Thimphu.


The sun hid behind a thick blanket of cloud threatening to pour heavy shower any moment but it was a perfect day for a hike.  We hitched our back packs over our shoulders and started the hike. For almost two hours the trail passed through sparse vegetation of mostly pine trees with few rhododendrons and other species of broad leaved trees. The trail is all uphill for almost two and half hours till we reached a saddle. The surrounding view from this point is breath-taking. Little further up at almost 3400mts we had our lunch. From here the climb got easier and the forest got much denser on both the sides leaving a corridor of pasture and in some places beautiful meadows.



We reached the highest point (3700 mts approx) at 1.30 in the afternoon. From here for kilometers the forest is covered with five different species of rhododendrons. The best time to hike here for flower lovers would be early May.

The walk through the forest is beautiful with birds singing and squabbling over best place to start a new generation and continue their species. Standing on the summit with the arms stretched, the scene from the movie Titanic was vivid on my mind. There could never be a better place to sit and contemplate. Looking down from this point we come to know the encroachment of the concrete jungle. Paddy fields have slowly disappeared, traditional earth rammed houses have given way to modern grotesque "match-box"type buildings. The families that once knew people of the whole valley today hardly know their next door neighbour. So much water has flown out of the Thimphu Chu (river) since my childhood.
Amid all the chaos and hustle and bustle we still find a place which has hardly changed for thousand of years.
Wild boars and deer still roam this place as it was evident from the fresh deer dropping and freshly dug earth. In some places we tried to track some animals but were clueless when the hoof-mark entered some grassy patch. Just a week back i returned to the gym after almost two years break and now plan to hike every weekend. The beauty of our country still lies in the wilderness.
                                                            Drink break on the trail
                                                              Nearing the highest point
                                                                 A good place for a picture







Friday, May 18, 2012

Jan, Mike and two others friends Bhutan Paro festival tour March-April 2012

 Hi
Good to have a chat tonight and while Mike's catching up with the rugby, I have a chance to email you.
Although checking in the luggage at Sydney was a little nerve racking, the vision of our bags going round and round on the carosel in Bangkok unclaimed, not a good one, all turned out well in the end.  At the end of the trip Druk air certainly showed Qantas up, by booking our luggage all the way to London and printing out a label to prove it!  Why can't qantas show the same level of service?
Two Aussies at a Yak Herder's Camp Restaurant

Our first 'trek' came with the steep ascent up to Cheri monastery.  Mike managed the climb too, but we were all puffed, except the guide and driver; they do some walking these Bhutanese.  The walk was worth it as much for the view as the monastery.  So began our insight into the religion, administration and work of the people of this fascinating land.  And we caught a glimpse of Taktshang, to show us what was in store for the last day.
                                                            Last day at the airport
The hotels were certainly of a good standard, if the plumbing left something to be desired!!  All the staff, without exception, were friendly, polite and eager to please.  They were a highlight of this trip along with the farm/guest house stay near the Black Necked Cranes valley.  Surprisingly perhaps, we also enjoyed the food, hardly noticing a lack of meat amongst lots of fresh and well cooked vegetables, steamed fern fronds, a delicacy, along with the national dish of chilly cheese.  And if you didn't want eggs everyday for breakfast, you could always order porridge with honey or bananas.
The state of the roads is very bad!  But also provided us with entertainment, when at road blocks, we witnessed kamikaze jack hammer operators high above the road hammering away at the rock which then fell in our general direction, over the road and on down the precipice.  Not to mention some corners where as the boys said, "never mind sparrows, eagles flying out of the arse" at the sheer drop over the edge.  Our guide was extremely amused by some of the comments coming from his passengers, but managed to keep his professionalism 97% of the time!  Sonham our driver, deserved a medal for his careful and safe driving.
We visited a first and middle school in Punakha, Rhuruthang Middle Secondary School.  This was one of the highlights for us.  The teachers and children were so excited by the small gift of stationary supplies we took for them, it was reward enough for us.  Cath had photos of her school and the kids were mesmerised.  Amongst the excitement we couldn't fail to note the enthusiasm of the teachers and the quality of the work being completed by the children.  Seven year olds doing fractions and the writing so, so neat.  We will send them copies of our photos.
The owner of the hotel in Trongsa, was an ex governor of the region, obviously highly educated with a wealth of knowledge which he was keen to share with his visitors.  We bombarded him with questions!  He would make a great ambassador for Bhutan.  Sometimes, it was hard to hear our guide, especially when he addressed his speech to the windscreen,  so this man was able to clear up a few misunderstandings and gaps in our info.  He explained how Bhutan sought aid/finance from the smaller countries in Europe, thus avoiding some of the traps other third world countries fall into when outlets such as McDonalds blight both the high streets and the diets of the local people.  The Museum of the Monarchy in Trongsa was such an example of good imput from Austria.  We were also impressed that our mobile phones had reception everywhere...unlike in Australia.  No wonder so many locals have mobiles!
We especially enjoyed meeting and talking with local people, whether in the shops or on the farms, or at the roadblocks and the monastery kitchens, in the hotels and even young girls and boys along the way.  On one of our walks around the valley, we met a couple of 'cool dudes' about 15yrs old, wearing ACDC and Who T-shirts, caps on sideways and trendy sneakers, very shy but able to converse in good English.  Such friendly people.
Finally to Taktshang, that picture I've had in my mind for the past 12 years that typifies Bhutan.  It didn't disappoint.  At first the climb looked daunting, but we had all day, the sky was clear and the temperature mild.  Mike snagged a good nag, if at an additional price, and wobbled his way to the halfway cafe.  We sweated, slowly uphill passing many an unfit tourist on the way.  It was good to have the views as an excuse to stop every 50 or so paces.  A coffee at the cafe was very welcome and replenished us for the walk to the Lookout, where we left Mike not wanting to do the final 500 steps!  The view from the lookout is awesome if somewhat untidy with prayer flags both old and new.  What a tremendous feat building the monastery on such a sheer cliff face.  On reaching the monastery itself, our guide took us through the temples, all so different with stories to match.  I can only marvel at the muscle, energy and determination that built those walls so many years before mechanisation or helicopters.  Would it be done in 2012 I wonder.  And I immediately know the answer. Yes, in Bhutan.
                                                        The great Taktsang monastery behind
Our final day gave us a taste of the Paro Tetsu and reminded us of a fairground with entertainment between the main events.  Once again, the people made it, looking resplendant in their festival Gho and Kira.  Amusement for us when the phallic decorated headgear cavorted and gestured in the arena with the audience!  Not supposed to be sexual, but certainly suggestive. 
The only feature that marred the look of the countryside was the litter problem.  Mountainsides of red rhododendrons and white magnolia were spoilt by the tipping of litter over the edges of roads.  They really need to address not only collection, but also disposal of litter caused, I guess, by the introduction of many western disposable items.  Unfortunately, not biodegradable.  And I don't think it was the tourists dropping the litter.
Ok, time to stop.  Just a few points from a wonderful trip.  Thank you so much for your organisational input.  I've included a couple of photos, from the last day, the only ones to survive.  Perhaps it's an omen that I deleted my photos and I should go back again!
Jan & Mike
02 44712634

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

"Thrue Bab" The Blessed Rainy Day...celebration.

Bhutan celebrates the "Thrue" tomorrow and all Government offices will remain closed.
During Thrue, Bhutanese believe that an elixir falls at a certain time in all water bodies. Thus, on this day all natural water is considered to be sanctifying and people are encouraged to take an outdoor bath to be cleansed of “bad deeds, obstructions and defilement and accumulated bad karma”. Some even keep clean bowls of water strewn with flowers, believing that the elixir will fall in the water.

Thrue has been a important part of our culture and a time when people in the villages take respite from their back breaking work. Its a time when families feast and merry.

I remember as a child when we were so excited to taste a different dish on this occasion. Then we have a longt list on our menu and everything is mouth watering.

Rubbing our eyes we got up at the crack of dawn and went to a near by brook to receive the "thrue". "Lucky people see river of milk" our elders said, but I never saw milk even in the pond. May be I was never lucky or I might have sinned too much. After we bathe we come home to get our warm bowl of strew and yak-butter tea. Nothing better than this day, then. After that a whole lot of grubs follow. After we have our fill we go out and play dart or hurl disc shaped stone till our arms ache.

Our elders are preoccupied with a drinking session or a game of archery. Women folks are either planning the next recipe or busy entertaining the archers with their dancing and jeering.

Today too things haven't changed much though Thrue has a modern touch. Instead of remaining home and drinking and eating now families want to go out picnicking. This day has become a time for the people living in the cities to remain home and relax. May be slowly this day is loosing its significance but still "Thrue" remains in my heart as it did before.....

Friday, August 27, 2010

Waste Not a Waste of Time.

If you think garbage is filth to be discarded then take a look at this.


Map of a Great country


Pet-bottle tower


A nice cover for your car


Something to do when they become extinct


Summer camp for a family