Jaigoan, a crazy little town

After about 5 long years it dawned to me that I had driven my SUV long enough. I needed a new car to brighten my hardened soul after bumpy rides through out Bhutan. Within a week of this thought i was driving to Phuntsholing (Bhutan's border town with Indian town of Jaigoan).

With the recent road widening and construction the road is as bumpy as it can be. When it rains its even worse. In some places the whole mountain has given way to huge landslides with narrow roads hanging precariously on the cliff. Passing these slides, any Buddhist would chant a few prayers, is quite scary.

Starting early, I reached Phuntsholing early. After placing an order for my car i had nothing to do so i slipped across the border. With Bhutan gate in the middle and a narrow drain in between the two towns are shoulder to shoulder with each other. If you take a step forward you will be in India and a step back you will be back in Bhutan.

From a dingy shanty town Jaigoan has grown to a bustling town with shopping Malls, movie theaters, fairly good restaurants and amusement houses.

Jaigoan has always amused me. As a little kid, holding my father's hand i went with him to this town for our annual shopping. Then i liked the streets lined with vegetable vendors, cobblers and rickshaw pullers who tugged at my sleeves for a cheap ride. "You have to bargain till you feel the itch in your nose" my elders said, and its true. The shopkeepers mark the price based on your appearance. A smartly dressed educated-looking person will be announced a reasonable price while a rustic country-type potato grower will be announced double the actual price knowing the fact that half the price will be bargained.

End of the day most return home triumph after having bargained so much.

I loved street magics and the snake charmers. I would have stayed the whole day watching them but my dad was always in a hurry. There was always something happening here. Animals trainers would make their animals entertain the passing crowd. Monkeys and bear danced while low tight-rope walkers showed theirperfection.

I always carried few coins with me so that i could throw some to the snake charmer who said it was for the "milk" for his snakes. I never grudged throwing few to the monkey trainer too.

Even today, Jaigoan has changed a little in spirit though it has become more polluted and populated. Some say "beside your mom and dad" you can literally find anythng here. And its true, from branded denims to designer jewellery, from great Indian sweet meat to the street "Pani -Puri " (a small puffed bread which is dipped in tamarind and rock salt water), almost everything is found here for every pocket.

The streets are strewn with litter and the Cow (Goddess of wealth) freely roam the streets ravaging on the garbage.

So, everything co-exists here animals, garbage and humans.

I could have gone on and on about this town but i would like you to enjoy some pictures




















Bhutan Gate standing proudly on the border