Hi
Good to have a chat tonight and while Mike's catching up with the rugby, I have a chance to email you.
Although checking in the luggage at Sydney was a little nerve
racking, the vision of our bags going round and round on the carosel in
Bangkok unclaimed, not a good one, all turned out well in the end. At
the end of the trip Druk air certainly showed Qantas up, by booking our
luggage all the way to London and printing out a label to prove it! Why
can't qantas show the same level of service?
Two Aussies at a Yak Herder's Camp Restaurant
Our first 'trek' came with the steep ascent up
to Cheri monastery. Mike managed the climb too, but we were all puffed,
except the guide and driver; they do some walking these Bhutanese. The
walk was worth it as much for the view as the monastery. So began our
insight into the religion, administration and work of the people of this
fascinating land. And we caught a glimpse of Taktshang, to show us
what was in store for the last day.
Last day at the airport
The hotels were certainly of a good standard, if the plumbing left
something to be desired!! All the staff, without exception, were
friendly, polite and eager to please. They were a highlight of this
trip along with the farm/guest house stay near the Black Necked Cranes
valley. Surprisingly perhaps, we also enjoyed the food, hardly noticing
a lack of meat amongst lots of fresh and well cooked
vegetables, steamed fern fronds, a delicacy, along with the national
dish of chilly cheese. And if you didn't want eggs everyday
for breakfast, you could always order porridge with honey or bananas.
The state of the roads is very bad! But also provided us with
entertainment, when at road blocks, we witnessed kamikaze jack hammer
operators high above the road hammering away at the rock which then fell
in our general direction, over the road and on down the precipice. Not
to mention some corners where as the boys said, "never mind sparrows,
eagles flying out of the arse" at the sheer drop over the edge. Our
guide was extremely amused by some of the comments coming from his
passengers, but managed to keep his professionalism 97% of the time! Sonham our driver,
deserved a medal for his careful and safe driving.
We visited a first and middle school in Punakha, Rhuruthang Middle
Secondary School. This was one of the highlights for us. The teachers
and children were so excited by the small gift of stationary supplies we
took for them, it was reward enough for us. Cath had photos of her
school and the kids were mesmerised. Amongst the excitement we couldn't
fail to note the enthusiasm of the teachers and the quality of the work
being completed by the children. Seven year olds doing fractions and
the writing so, so neat. We will send them copies of our photos.
The owner of the hotel in Trongsa, was an ex governor of the
region, obviously highly educated with a wealth of knowledge which he
was keen to share with his visitors. We bombarded him with questions!
He would make a great ambassador for Bhutan. Sometimes, it was hard to
hear our guide, especially when he addressed his speech to the
windscreen, so this man was able to clear up a few misunderstandings
and gaps in our info. He explained how Bhutan sought aid/finance from
the smaller countries in Europe, thus avoiding some of the traps other
third world countries fall into when outlets such as McDonalds blight
both the high streets and the diets of the local people. The Museum of
the Monarchy in Trongsa was such an example of good imput from Austria.
We were also impressed that our mobile phones had reception
everywhere...unlike in Australia. No wonder so many locals have
mobiles!
We especially enjoyed meeting and talking with local people,
whether in the shops or on the farms, or at the roadblocks and the
monastery kitchens, in the hotels and even young girls and boys along
the way. On one of our walks around the valley, we met a couple of
'cool dudes' about 15yrs old, wearing ACDC and Who T-shirts, caps on
sideways and trendy sneakers, very shy but able to converse in good
English. Such friendly people.
Finally to Taktshang, that picture I've had in my mind for the past
12 years that typifies Bhutan. It didn't disappoint. At first the
climb looked daunting, but we had all day, the sky was clear and the
temperature mild. Mike snagged a good nag, if at an additional price,
and wobbled his way to the halfway cafe. We sweated, slowly uphill
passing many an unfit tourist on the way. It was good to have the views
as an excuse to stop every 50 or so paces. A coffee at the cafe was
very welcome and replenished us for the walk to the Lookout, where we
left Mike not wanting to do the final 500 steps! The view from the
lookout is awesome if somewhat untidy with prayer flags both old and
new. What a tremendous feat building the monastery on such a sheer
cliff face. On reaching the monastery itself, our guide took us through
the temples, all so different with stories to match. I can only marvel
at the muscle, energy and determination that built those walls so many
years before mechanisation or helicopters. Would it be done in 2012 I
wonder. And I immediately know the answer. Yes, in Bhutan.
The great Taktsang monastery behind
Our final day gave us a taste of the Paro Tetsu and reminded us of a
fairground with entertainment between the main events. Once again, the
people made it, looking resplendant in their festival Gho and Kira.
Amusement for us when the phallic decorated headgear cavorted and
gestured in the arena with the audience! Not supposed to be sexual, but
certainly suggestive.
The only feature that marred the look of the countryside was the
litter problem. Mountainsides of red rhododendrons and white magnolia
were spoilt by the tipping of litter over the edges of roads. They
really need to address not only collection, but also disposal of litter
caused, I guess, by the introduction of many western disposable items.
Unfortunately, not biodegradable. And I don't think it was the tourists
dropping the litter.
Ok, time to stop. Just a few points from a wonderful trip. Thank
you so much for your organisational input. I've included a couple of
photos, from the last day, the only ones to survive. Perhaps it's an
omen that I deleted my photos and I should go back again!
Jan & Mike
02 44712634
